“No way am I getting on a horse!” I stated vehemently. I could feel my jaw tighten and my stomach squirm. I have nothing against horse riding normally, in fact have quite enjoyed trail rides over the years, even managing to stay on while trotting and cantering. This was different. We were in Ladakh, in the mountains of the Tibetan Plateau in far northern India. A stunningly beautiful land in a harsh way, …